Information for Mantua Makers Corset of 1860's & 1870's

The Mantua Maker Corset Pattern for 1865-1880

"The Underside of the 1860's & 1870's"

Our number 00-pattern-33

The Mantua Maker Patterns are well drafted but the instructions are not as thorough as a novice corset maker might need. The instructions do include a lot of interesting information. I suggest you take a high-lighter and mark the information you need and NOT the information that's simply interesting. That way it will be easier to find the information when you need it.

Note: the photo shows the corset made up as instructed. The suggested busk length was 12" – we used a 13" busk and a 14" one would have fit better. Since the busk is too short you can see pulling at the top and bottom.

 

 

 I usually recommend placing the busk as close to the top of the corset binding as possible if the busk you have is to short. Then add a corset hoop below the busk.


But, you could to resolve the pulling problem that resulted from a too short busk you could also add two bones and slid one behind each busk half. Then add a corset hook and corset eye at both the top and bottom to close the front more neatly.

 

 

This sample was made by Anna Baines and she opted to use cream bzy floral coutil as the outer layer and cream fine cotton as a lining. She chose a gold colour busk and gold/brass grommets to coordinate with the cream until. She finished the top and bottom edges with wide cream satin ribbon and laced the back the same color ribbon in a narrower width. She used a selection of both spring steel and spiral bones. The bones are encased in white bone casing tape, in some cases she used 3/4" wide tape and stitched down the middle to allow two bones next to each other. The result is a lightweight corset that still creates shape and offers support.

This is a nice corset and Anna's turned out really well but a novice stitcher might find the hip and bust gores a challenge.

Qty

Description

Item #

Link to Catalog

1

Corset pattern

00-pattern-33

 

.7m

Coutil, cream bzy floral

74-1158-03

 

.7m

Cotton sheeting as lining

Not sold by Farthingales

 

1

13" long gold colour busk (pattern called for 12" bus but a 14" busk would have fit)

91-8552G-13

 

1.8m

Bone casing tape 3/4" white (sewn down the middle to create side by side channels for 2 bones)

34-7234-01

 

2m

Bone casing ½" wide white

34-7212-01

 

2

Spring steel bones 22cm (CF)

50-8206-22

 

2

Spring steel bones 33cm

50-8206-33

 

4

Spiral steel bones 11 inch

47-8000-11

 

2

Spiral steel bones 11.5 inches

47-8000-11.5

 

2

Spiral steel bones 12 inches

47-8000-12

 

2

Spring steel bones 14cm (15 cm would have fit better but we don't stock them)

50-8206-14

 

2

Spring steel bones 10cm (12cm would have fit better but we don't stock them)

50-8206-10

 

2

Spring steel bones 33cm

50-8206-33

 

30

Size 00 grommets brass

60-8820-kit

 

7m

6mm (1/4") Double faced satin ribbon

Not sold by Farthingales

 

4m

1" (2.54 cm) wide soft satin ribbon for binding

Not sold by Farthingales

 

2

11mm (1/2") wide bone – we slide these behind the busk since the bust was not long enough to support the full length of the front edge.

50-8511-37

 

2

Corset hooks and corset eyes to complete the center front since the busk was not quite long enough

91-7050-NH

91-7050-NE

Reading next

Truly Victorian Elliptical Cage and Round Cage Materials Requirements
Farthingales Tips for Working with Fosshape

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